In our last visit to this part of Greece we did not have the time to visit the island of Tilos, so with great anticipation we left Kos and navigated the 24 miles, 4 hour journey to anchor in the port of Livadia. A wide sweeping bay with a pebble beach, a smattering of late season tourists and very few boats.

I couldn’t help think of Jo and how she would have really appreciated a dinghy dock with such an easy landing spot and steps to save the rather undignified landing that usually accompanies any exit from a dinghy!

Just one day and night in Tilos to catch up on jobs and do food shopping but we enjoyed the walk around the bay all 7,227 steps. The evening drinks were had in a funky bar (their last night before they closed for the season) and dinner in one of the two restaurants that remained open. I had been longing for one of my favourite Greek appetisers, Fava, but had no luck in Kos – hooray they were to be found in Tilos – perfect with fried courgette!

Our plan for the two weeks between leaving Kos and returning there on 1st November was to visit the triangle of islands between the coast of Turkey and the shores of Rhodes. With Tilos ‘done’ we were off to Khalki of which I had heard such wonderful reviews and then to Symi which I knew was stunning from our short visit in 2016.

Khalki was absolutely stunning! Huge influence of the Italians from 1912 until the end of WWII means that this is the Greek Island equivalent of English Chocolate Box cottages and I make no excuse for the amount of photos!

We decided to take a walk up to what looked like a fort just below a line of three Windmills. Following the labyrinth of lanes and steps through and behind the cute houses we found a path out of the village and up towards our destination. We passed a very secure looking compound with scary intimidating signs designed to deter any idea of getting too close! Inside the compound were a couple of officials, police? soldiers? who did raise their hands to say hello, or possibly they meant clear off! We were about to change direction and head directly to the fort across some gravel and wasteland when we quickly realised that this was also a ‘no go’ area based on more unfriendly signs and also the fact that the ‘fort’ was actually the island’s comms and satellite station!

After a few twists and turns of path and direction, we were eventually rewarded, arriving at a secluded beach where the water was Caribbean clear and the small bar still open serving us a mid afternoon Ouzo!

After our excursion, we were charmed by the views on our return trip, taking an alternative route back and happy to see Mossy Joe in the distance.

And to top off the day the most wonderful sunset!

Many of the restaurants were either closed or had limited menu choices so we had dinner on board after a very delightful cocktail in the local bar.

The following day before heading off we visited two of the three ‘supermarkets’ stocking up on vitals like tomatoes, peanuts, ice and……just as you would find above the fresh produce in Tesco……a chain saw!!!

Our next port of call I was very excited about – heading back to Symi which we had been to briefly seven years ago and then only to the main port to sort some repairs with no time to visit the fabulous coves and beaches.

Symi and the adventures we had there deserves a blog all of its own. One of the highlights was meeting our twin, which after seven months at sea we had not encountered before!

More next time!

Thank you for reading and wishing you a wonderful weekend!

Be kind, be safe.

Tracey xx