We packed our overnight bags and waited one last time for the ferry to take us to Thira to spend our last day and evening with Jeanne and take the chance to see some of the less well known treasures of Santorini.

We had organised a hire car to be delivered to the port so that meant we did not have to make the 300 step journey by foot to get to the town again – I was devastated as you can imagine!!

We set off away from Oia to the south of the island and our accommodation for the night in Pyrgos. The town of Pyrgos and surrounding area were charming and despite the name of our Airbnb the ‘Love Leopard Caves’ it too was fabulous! Although it was a little odd to sleep somewhere that doesn’t rock gently all night long!

After settling into our caves in the old castle walls and grabbing some lunch on the go we were back in the car and heading south west to visit the site of Ancient Akrotiri which is in many ways the Greek equivalent of Pompeii.

The enormous volcanic eruption that destroyed the Bronze Age settlement of Akrotiri took place around 1,650 B.C. The entire town was covered with ashes and lava, which preserved Akrotiri almost intact through time. The excavation started in 1967 and still continues to uncover its history and treasures.

One of the most incredible finds was the structure for their sophisticated sewerage system, seen below, 100s of years ahead of the first terrible attempts in England!

After a quick trip to the local black sand beach we headed back to Pyrgos and to watch the sunset from another viewpoint.

For our last dinner together we headed through the labyrinth of lanes and steps, a smaller and less crazy version of Oia, to a tiny but wonderful restaurant with a fabulous view. Plus George made some new friends!

Not wanting the evening to end, I suggested (unlike me I know!) that we find somewhere for a nightcap. I had read about Franco’s restaurant, at the top of the town, which was known for its inventive cocktails so we hiked another couple of flights of steps and wandered in. We were welcomed and ushered to a terrace where I imagine at sunset, the view and ambience would have been marvellous but at nearly 11pm it was starting to turn chilly! They offered us blankets and those of us with jumpers or fleeces on only needed a light covering. Some people who were not wearing any second layer needed something more all encompassing!

The next morning we said a sad goodbye to Jeanne, only slightly cheered up by a trip to a Carrefour supermarket and then headed back to Mossy Joe. On the return ferry trip I was sitting next to a local lady who I had heard speak very good English and I asked her about a structure in the rock that had puzzled me every time we had gone past it. I thought it looked like some kind of MI5 training camp!

I was informed that in fact the building was created from the remains of one of the old mines that were prevalent all around Thirasia for 100s of years – the pummice that was mined here was exported to contribute to the building of the Suez Canal.

The building began as a private holiday home for a rich Greek businessman who then decided to open it up as a luxurious villa. Amongst its visitors have been Brad & Angelina and Putin!!! Presumably not all at the same time!!

We made good use of our early start to the day by lifting anchor and leaving the Cyclades and into the Dodecanese Islands heading to one of our favourite islands from our previous trip, seven years ago, Astypalea. On the journey we were absolutely delighted to be treated to a stunning display of dolphins, six or seven of them all around the boat! Magical!

Astypalea is such as beautiful and friendly island, with another example of the Hora up in the hills complete with the remains of its castle.

On our second day we managed the hike up to the castle and stayed there for the evening to eat, drink and recover!

And after Sunset, the lighting up of the Windmills was really charming.

And we loved this…….found on the wall of one of the street bars.

Two nights in this fabulous place and it was time to head to our final destination with Lily and George, 34 miles and 5 hours away, the island of Kos. We had four more days of fun in the sun and the sea and even though we were not in the main Kos Town, the area around the bay of Kefalos was fairly touristy, albeit quiet in late September. The upside of this was the huge range of food options!! Someone was very happy especially after the exertions of kayaking!!!!

It was very sad (again!) to say Goodbye to family but looking forward to our next set of adventures………

In Kaymnos, where we intended to stay for two days and ended up almost taking up residency after nine days!! No surprise when you have sights like this to see…..

More soon……

Stay safe, have fun, be kind!

Tracey xx

PS. The winch is with our friends in Athens! Hooray!!